Shikoku – in the footsteps of Kūkai

Tokushima, Japan

Holiday overview

Destination

Japan


Type

Pilgrim Routes, Self Guided


Difficulty

Moderate to Strenuous


Month

Mar - Nov


Price

£ 2590 pp


Duration

7 nights


Lush with greenery, towering trees and majestic mountains, Shikoku is a welcome escape from the densely populated regions of Japan. The first expressway to connect Shikoku to the main island of Honshū was built in 1988, and so could previously only be reached by boat. This still gives the region an isolated nature that has protected the original characteristics of Japanese culture and its ancient traditions. The mountainous nature of the region means there is heavy snowfall in winter and mild temperatures in summer. Shikoku’s rugged remoteness has attracted many travelers seeking a more unique part of Japan.

The island is home to the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage, a spiritual journey following in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, also known as Kūkai, who reached enlightenment in the isolated mountains and decided to devote his life to the Buddha. Following intense study of Buddhism in China and the creation of the temple complex on Mount Kōya, he never forgot his home island of Shikoku and undertook a journey to visit all of its 88 temples. Even today pilgrims from all over the world follow in his footsteps and visit the temples dressed in traditional garb, receiving blessings in the form of food and drinks from the locals.

Shikoku is Japan’s fourth-largest island, home to some of the country’s most spectacular and undeveloped scenery. The island is also the setting for an ancient walking trail, the challenging Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. The trail connects 88 Buddhist temples and the full walk covers more than a thousand kilometres.

Pilgrims known as ohenro traditionally covered the journey on foot over many weeks, staying overnight at shukubo temple lodgings. Most modern travellers now travel from temple to temple by tour bus, but we have found sections of the original route which can still be enjoyed on foot.

We offer 5-day, 8-day, and 10-day versions of this pilgrimage. 8 day/7 night version featured – please ask for details of the 5 or 10 night version.

Highlights of this tour include walking on carefully selected portions of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage including visits to some of the most atmospheric temples, climbing the iconic ladder to the meditation spot used by the founder of Shingon Buddhism, and two nights in a shukubo temple lodging which features authentic shojin ryori Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.

Walking is generally on quiet town and country roads, and unpaved forest trails. Along with our 5-day version, this tour offers the most demanding walking.

 

Prices (based on two people sharing a room) from:

£1,510 per person for 5 days/4 nights

£2,590 per person for 8 days/7 nights

£3,580 per person for 10 days/9 nights

Single supplement on request.

 

Accommodation 

7 nights at Japanese inns on Shikoku Island with breakfast and dinners included (7 breakfasts, 6 dinners).

 

Included:

  • 7 nights in Japanese Inns
  • 7 breakfasts
  • 6 dinners
  • Round trip transportation from Kyoto or Osaka
  • 5 pre-paid taxis as per itinerary
  • Route notes and maps
  • Local telephone support

 

Not Included:

  • Flights
  • Airport transfers
  • Meals & drinks not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Local bus journeys – must be paid directly to the driver
  • Cable car journey – day 3
  • Luggage transfers

 

Departure Dates:

Recommended from March to November.

Available year round but snow possible December – March.

Day 1: Tokushima (Temples 1 to 3)
5.8 km / 3.6 mi, Negligible ascent, Negligible descent
Shukubo (temple lodging) or ryokan (traditional Japanese inn)
Dinner

Start from Kyoto or Osaka and travel by long distance bus to Tokushima Prefecture.

Begin your pilgrimage with a gentle introduction to the walks on Shikoku through quiet neighbourhoods of Tokushima. Visit three of the most eye-catching temples on the whole trail—Temple 1, Ryozen-ji; Temple 2, Gokuraku-ji; and Temple 3, Konsen-ji.

Spend your first night as all pilgrims should—with a stay in a shukubo temple lodging. There is also the option of staying at a city-centre ryokan for this first night.

An optional additional walk along paved roads to Temple 7, Juraku-ji, can extend the day by 3 km/1.9 mi and around 45 minutes.

 

Day 2: Tokushima (Temple 11 to 12)

19.2 km / 11.9 mi, about 7-8 hours
1,330 m / 4,365 ft of ascent, 1,210 m / 3,970 ft of descent

Onsen ryokan (hot spring inn) or Western style hotel.

Breakfast & dinner.

Travel south from your temple lodging by pre-booked and pre-paid taxi to Temple 11, Fujii-dera, which is located at the bottom of a fascinating hillside temple complex. From Fujii dera Temple, undertake a challenging hike to Temple 12, Shosan-ji. Although the full walk is one of the longest and most strenuous on the
tour, it is rewarding with beautiful scenery. Walk onwards to Yorii and board a bus to the small onsen village of Kamiyama and your inn for the evening.

You can reduce the walk to 5-6 hours (14.1 km/8.8 mi) and avoid the first half of the strenuous ascent up Mount Shosan-ji. Simply pay locally to extend the taxi ride on the day— no need to decide in advance.

 

Day 3: Tokushima (Temples 20 to 21)
8.2 km / 5.1 mi, about 3-4 hours
460 m / 1,510 ft ascent, 470 m / 1,540 ft descent
Western-style hotel
Breakfast.

Travel by pre-paid taxi to one of the most beautiful and varied hikes on the entire 88 Pilgrimage route. From Temple 20, Kakurin-ji, the trail descends to the hamlet of Anan, crosses the Nakagawa River, and climbs again to Temple 21, Tairyu-ji. End the day with a cable car ride with wonderful views over a cedar forest and the small town below. Travel by bus to your accommodation for the evening.
The walk can be extended to about 5 hours for travellers staying in Tokushima city. Please enquire if you would like to undertake this longer option.

 

Day 4: Kagawa (Temples 82 to 80)

13.5 km / 8.4 mi, about 5 hours
335 m / 1,100 ft ascent, 655 m / 2,150 ft descent
Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn)
Breakfast, dinner.

Leaving Tokushima, travel by bus and a pre-paid taxi to a rewarding hike in northern Kagawa Prefecture. Walk through lovely scenery and visit a fine collection of temples: Temple 82, Negoro-ji; Temple 81, Shiromine-ji; and finally Temple 80, Kokubun-ji.

Travel onwards by train for an overnight stay in the old hot spring town of Kotohira Spa.

The walk can be shortened by 1.5 hours (5.4 km/3.4 mi) by omitting the round-trip section to Temple 81, Shiromine-ji.

 

Day 5: Ehime (Temples 57 to 58)

4.4km / 2.7 mi, about 1.5 hours
250 m / 820 ft, ascent negligible
Shukubo (temple lodging) or Western style hotel
Breakfast, dinner.

Leaving Kagawa, travel by train to Imabari in northern Ehime and begin your hike to Temple 57, Eifuku-ji. The walk gradually passes from urban townscape to rural farming communities before entering a forest with a steady climb to Temple 58, Senyū-ji.

There is also an optional detour to Temple 56, Taisan-ji.

Overnight at Senyū-ji Temple in the shukubo lodging at the temple, or alternatively stay in a Western-style hotel in Imabari City.

 

Day 6: Ehime (Temple 58 onwards)

4.4 km / 2.7 mi, about 1 hour
negligible 250 m / 820 ft descent
Onsen ryokan (hot spring inn)
Breakfast, dinner.

The hike continues with a gentle walk down the mountain from Senryu-ji Temple, with the opportunity to explore small village settlements on the way. Return to the town of Imabari, with an optional paved town hike on to Temple 59, Iyo Kokubun-ji, and continue onwards to Matsuyama by train and overnight in Dogo Onsen.

An optional paved walk of 4.1 km (2.5 mi) can also extend the hike by a further 1.5 hours.

 

Day 7: Ehime (Temples 45 to 44)

1.7 km / 7.3 mi, about 4 hours
650 m / 1,900 ft ascent, 580 m / 820 ft descent
Onsen ryokan (hot spring inn)
Breakfast, dinner.

Head south by bus and pre-paid taxi from Matsuyama to Temple 45, Iwaya-ji, a temple closely linked to Kōbō Daishi, the priest who founded Shingon Buddhism and temple settlement of Mount Koya. Climb the iconic ladder to his meditation spot, with its spectacularviews over the surrounding region.

From Iwaya-ji Temple, enjoy a lovely forest hike to Temple 44, Daiho-ji, before returning by bus to Matsuyama in the evening.

Overnight in Dogo Onsen.

 

Day 8: Ehime (Temples 60 to 62)

13.7 km / 8.5 mi, about 4-5 hours
650 m / 1,900 ft ascent, 580 m / 820 ft descent
Breakfast

The tour ends with a rewarding hike in the east of Ehime Prefecture. Travel by bus and pre paid taxi from Matsuyama to reach the trail and walk to Temple 60, Yokomine-ji; Temple 61, Kōon-ji; and onwards to Temple 62, Hoju-ji.

The walk passes through a rural area of Shikoku and the temples are in lovely natural settings.

After the hike, travel onwards by train to the Kansai area, arriving mid-evening.

You can reduce the hike by about one hour to 11.3 km / 7 mi, avoiding the first uphill section. Simply pay locally to extend the taxi ride to Temple 60, Yokomine-ji. Choose on the day— no need to decide in advance.